2020 SOKY Fair Demolition Derby rules
$5,000 Total Purse!!
We have added to the Derby this year to include a Compact division, in addition to Big Cars.
Also Kids Powerwheels Competition!!
GATES OPEN @ 6PM
EVENT STARTS @ 7:30PM
Big Car: Stephen Vincent @
Compacts: Robbie Vest @ (270)899-0713
FAIRGROUNDS OFFICE- (270)842-7980
-CARS MUST BE ON GROUNDS AND REGISTERED BY 6:30 PM
All parking will be at the backside of the Fairgrounds. There will be no entrance through Lampkin Park.
WE ARE NOT HAVING RIDES THIS YEAR DUE TO COVID-19.
Social Distancing is strongly encouraged,along with masks, as advised by the CDC. We are allowing individuals to bring their own lawn chairs to help people spread out.
Gates open for registration at 5:00 pm CST and ends promptly at 6:30pm CST. All cars MUST be registered by 6:30 pm CST or you will not be allowed to run. All cars must enter from the Glen Lily Road gate.
ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL
-Any American made sedan or wagon-NO IMPERIALS or imperial sub frames. No suicide Lincoln’s. No 2003 or newer cars or frames
-All glass, chrome molding, hood latches, gas tanks, and rear seats, all decking in station wagons must be removed
-Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor, however, these bolts may NOT go thru the frame! You must have a functioning seat belt.
– All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and the driver’s seat.
-No sedagon or wedge cars are allowed, before or after heats.
-Radiators must stay in original location. May be strapped or wired in. NO RADIATOR PROTECTORS!
-You may run electric fan.
-Batteries must be moved to the passenger’s side floor board. NO more than 2 batteries.
-Factory condensers only. They may be wired in, not welded.
-Transmission coolers or oil coolers are allowed.
-Floor mounted gas and brake pedal allowed but must be bolted to sheet metal only.
-Pedals, coolers, gas tanks and battery boxes cannot strengthen the car in any way.
-Motor swaps and rear end swaps allowed.
-No doubling of body panels-No body seam welding.
-Body creasing is allowed to the rear quarters and pillars only!-NO folding of seams
-Driver door may be welded solid-All other doors must be welded 6”on and 6” off max 3’’ wide below the windows. Wire only from the windows up. 2 spots at each post and 2 spots at the tops of the doors. 2 stands max.
-Drivers door may have a 12” wide door plate not to extend 3” past the door seams.
-Sunroofs have to be covered, no exceptions. Any type of fan has to be covered.
-Stock type hood must be used. No welding of inner skeleton to outer shell of hood. Hoods must be open for inspection. Hoods may be secured up to a total of 6 places with one of the following methods, A) #9 wire-max 3 strands per location.
3’’ by 3” x ¼ angle NO longer than 6” with 3/8th bolts. C) using a 4” x6’’ bracket welded to inside of fender under the hood in (4) locations with 1’’ all thread welded or bolted to bracket at the fire wall. All thread in core support may be used as (2) extra hold downs
-Two (2) window bars allowed in front windshield-NOT to touch anything to strengthen car-may be bolted or welded.
-NO Rear window bar.
-If welding front you may only weld 3’’ of each bar to roof and 3’’ to firewall.
-Trunk may be welded up to (10) 6” straps only, no angle iron. None of them to touch- No wider than 3” strapping. Hole must be cut in trunk big enough to see inside.
-May tuck the trunk lid in a 90 degree but cannot weld or bolt to trunk pan. Still need a hole in trunk lid to see behind lid.
-Rear quarter panels must remain standing up. DO NOT FOLD OVER TRUNK
1) non-roll down style- may be welded solid
2) 71-76 gm wagons- If dropped AT LEAST 50% down may weld solid. If standing any higher than 50% weld 6’’ on 6’’ off.
-May cut & roll fenders for tire clearance but no welding them back to fender. May bolt fenders and quarters with (4) four 3/8 max in size per wheel well.
-Sedans may run (2) strands of #9 wire from roof around tops of rear doors, rear side windows on 2 doors, to frame in 4 spots total, 2 per side. Wire must go through the roof only and may NOT tie into roll bar or roof sign in any way. Wagons may run same amount of wire from top of rear side windows to one of two locations, either to the frame or tops of quarter panels, not both. May weld washers to top of roof for wire to go through.
-Doghouses and core supports may be interchanged but cannot move core supports from original location
-May weld core supports to the fender at the very top where its meets. May also weld a washer or 3’’ wide plate just long enough for all thread to go through. No other welding to core support unless it’s for radiator mounting purposes
-Only rust that can be patched are the interior floorboards where seat, battery box, fuel tanks and feet are located. No patching around body mounts.
-No welding of interior body seems.
-May run wire from core support to bumper in (4) locations 2 strands per location
-Any year factory bumpers which can be loaded and seem welded are allowed. DEC , Dixon or circle z style replacement bumpers is allowed. Homemade bumpers must be close to the same dimensions of the bumper it’s a replica of. Seams maybe welded on bumpers. Bumper ends may be cut off and capped up. Call if you need clarification.
-Bumper swaps are allowed.
-Homemade bumper shocks allowed. NO longer than 8”, 2”x2” max OD. Shocks may be collapsed and welded. Must remain completely inside the frame, nothing outside.
-NO rear brackets on front.
-FOR OLD AND NEW MODELS BOTH–If front bumper is hard-nosed no bracket can be used but 2’’x2’’x8’’ homemade shock OR a 3’’x8’’x1/4’’ plate may be welded along frame, must butt up to bumper.
-Bumper brackets and shocks may be welded to frame. Bumpers may be welded to shocks.
-Cars/wagons with large “BOP” hole on inside of frame horn may do ONE of the following. If mounting bumper with brackets on shocks on side of frame, leave bracket in stock location and weld hole up with a 1/8’’ plate just large enough to cover hole OR may shorten frame & wrap bracket around curve in frame and weld to frame but leave hole untouched. MAY NOT SHORTEN FRAME PAST FACTORY CORE SUPPORT MOUNT! If using a chevy shock tower, shock must be in original location within shock tower and allowed to weld up hole. If hardnosing, see above rule.
-You may modify a back bumper maximum ¼” thick of 2”x5” tubing. Must be welded to factory shocks. Back bumper cannot be loaded and ends cannot be capped.
-When hardnosing—-DO NOT SHORTEN FRAME PAST FACTORY LOCATION OF CORE SUPPORT BOLT.
-No welding bumpers to the body’s.
-Frames may be dimpled or notched but do not weld back together. No creasing of frames. May beat the humps in but nothing excessive to create a creasing effect.
-NO frame seam welding. NO frame shaping. NO shortening or stubbing of rear frames. NO moving of factory eye or a homemade eye for core support bolts on fords.
-May pitch Fords by cutting straps at crush boxes and welding back with one single pass weld. NO bending at cross member. JUST STRAPS ONLY.
-HUMP PLATES ALLOWED ON METRIC GMS ONLY!! NO LONGER THAN 22’’ MUST CONTOUR HUMP
-No adding of gussets if not equipped
-All cars are allowed 2 4”x4”x1/4” plates. One per side.
– Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected and loaded. We want to see all welds bare, DO NOT PAINT!
SUSPENSION & STEERING:
-Steering columns may be replaced with aftermarket columns.
-Front A-Arms can be welded with 2”x2” strap. 1 in the front of the A-Arm and 1 in the back of the A-Arm. No welding of lower a-arm.
-OEM A-arms must be used in factory location. No homemade or aftermarket A-arms allowed.
-May interchange upper and lower a-arms but must be a direct fit. No fabricating them to make them work. May trim the bottom of a-frames for clearance.
-No welding sway bar or moving from factory location to another location on the frame. May remove if desired. May bolt solid to lower a-arm if not running a pulley protector.
-No homemade/braced/aftermarket ball joints or spindles. Stock ball joints to the a-arms you are using.
-Any style tie rods. No hydraulic setups.
-Rocker arms, hyster blocks, and springs kicked over is allowed. May tack weld springs after kicked over to hold in place-rear springs may be stretched also and tacked or wired in place.
-Max bumper height is 21” min bumper height is 16” from bottom of bumper to ground. The bottom of the frame rail should be 13” to the ground. THIS WILL BE STRICKLY ENFORCED. DO NOT TRY TO OVER DO IT!!
-No all thread for shocks.
-You may chain rearend to the spring pocket only. Bolted only, no welding of links.
-OEM control arms may be lengthened or shortened to change pinion angle. You may weld ¼’’ thick flat stock to sides of arms in order to achieve desired length. Weld only up to 4’’ per side of each arm to the flat stock. No loading or stuffing of control arms. No tubing for control arms.
-8 leaf maximum, 5/16 ” max thickness, 2 ½” wide maximum.
-Stagger – 3″ long side (rear of axle), 2″ short side (front of axle).
-5 clamps per spring, 2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle.
-Clamp material 1/4″ thick, 2″ wide, 2 – 3/8″ bolts per clamp.
-U-bolts – 1/2″ maximum
-No homemade mounting plates or oversized U-bolts will be allowed.
-No welding on the spring pack
-No flat sprung cars, must go under rear-end-leaf pack must have a minimum of 2″ of arch.
-No duct taping of springs prior to inspection
-Leaf springs must be mounted in original locations
-Original hangers and shackles must be used in vehicle’s factory location. NO WELDING! DO NOT MOVE OR FABRICATE THEM!!
WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS:
-Brackets for upper control arms must be bolt in only. Cut the body out so as the bolts don’t act as extra body bolts. No welding them to the package tray and no replacing package tray. No larger than 12” and 2 piece only.
-Brackets for lower control arms may be welded to frame. May be made from 2 1/2”x 2 1/2”x 1/4” tubing no longer than 6”. Homemade brackets may be no larger than stock bracket. FACTORY lower control arm bracket may not be altered or welded in any way—leave as is or take completely off.
-Four (4) bar cage to be no bigger than 4×6 inches and can be welded to car but not excessively. Front bar to be 5” from firewall and 5” from transmission tunnel. Side bars may not go back more than 10” from post and stop at the firewall. Rear cross bar to no farther than 4’’ from seat to go straight across to other side. No down legs to floor board or to frame. No kickers from front bar to front frame at all-NO KICKERS OF ANY KIND.
-A roll Bar that can be bolted or wired to the roof is allowed. 2 spots only. Must be straight up-not slanted toward rear of car. May weld roll bar to cage only, must be within 2’’ of rear cross bar. Nothing off the top of the roll bar longer than 3” for bolting purposes.
-Gas tanks must be relocated to center of rear seat area, securely fastened and covered. Any visible leaking fuel will result in automatic disqualification
-A floating gas tank protector maybe ran-NO wider than 28” and can touch speaker deck. Do not weld or bolt to speaker deck. Do not beat sheet metal back. No down legs or kickers from gas tank protector at all.
-Gussets no longer than 8” and at the corners of the cage only
-Center bar may be ran but must remain 5” away from all sheet metal. No gussets from center bar to side bars.
-Front (2) two body bolts may be changed with all thread up to 1” in size. All thread may go through bottom of frame. Washer on bottom side of frame to be no bigger than 4’’x4’’ and cannot be welded.-Front spacer may not be longer than 6”x3’’ in diameter and must be between frame hole/eye and core support. Spacer may be welded to frame only.
-New model fords must leave factory eye in factory location. You may weld a ¼’’ thick plate on top of eye that can extend to frame seem and no father. It can only be as wide as the eye itself. No other welding to the eye.
-***PICK ONE OPTION***
A. May change the 4 body bolts at the fire wall to a 1/2 bolt max. Must leave factory bushing in place. 4 separate washers on the bottom side must be inside the frame. 4 separate washers on top side.
B. May add 2 extra body bolts 3/4” max welded vertically to the side of the frame. Bolts to be no longer than 8” if in the drivers compartment. If in the trunk area of sedans may extend thru the trunk lid. Washers only on the lid, no tubing above or below. No bushings or spacers between body and frame.
***All washers 3” max in diameter and free floating. NO WELDING!
-All other body bolts and bushings to remain stock
-Engine cradles, pully protectors, distributor protectors and transmission braces are allowed. NO chains if running an engine cradle. IF distributor protector is ran fire wall must be cut out and not to touch the back or top of protector before or after derby. If protector crosses the plane of the firewall and firewall collapses onto side of protector, you’re ok. If back of protector or halo contacts firewall and acts like a brace it may result in disqualification. So be wise on how you configure your set up. It is a protector not a brace.
-If running a pulley protector sway bar must be removed or cut out in between the frame rails.
-No connecting cradles to any portion of the frame other than the lower motor mounts.
-May run a chain from each side of the engine from the front of the motor straight down the K frame if your not running a cradle. Chains may only be bolted no welding.
-Transmission brace cannot strengthen car at all and may not attached in any way to cross member. If using a brace, must have (3) 12’’ relief cuts in trans tunnel. If using a floor shifter and you have to cut out at least 12’’ for shifter rod that will act as (1) relief cut.
-If running a trans brace, the transmission may only be wired or chained to the cross member. NO BOLTING!
-OEM Tran cross member or 2″x2″ OD 1/4” max replacement. Must be mounted with at least a 1/4 space from all trans protector components.
-Square tubing cross members must be run straight across.
-You may weld or bolt a 3’’x 3’’ inch angle iron to inside frame, 5 inches max to facilitate the mounting of cross member
-5 to 10 lug rear ends allowed. Rear end braces allowed-Not to touch frame or brace car in any way.
-Slip shafts allowed.
-Pinion brakes allowed.
-Any size wheel and tire. Wheel centers and guards allowed. There is to be no metal extend past the bead area/wheel lip. PERIOD!
PRE-FEATURE/PRE-CONSOLATION CAR PREPARATION:
– You may use unlimited wire for consi or feature.
-Leaf spring cars may NOT replace leaf springs prior to either the consi or the feature.
-You may wire them or tape leaf springs, but may not replace them.
-No replacing of sheet metal components prior to the consi or the feature.
-After the heats, consi cars will be re inspected.
-Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
-Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules.
-No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
-Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
-Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
-You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds.
-This is not a team event, team driving will not be tolerated.
-THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. DRIVERS ARE NOT ALLOWED TO DRINK UNTILL AFTER THEIR NIGHT IS DONE! If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
-All cars are subject to a post race inspection before any prize money is awarded.
-You must be a driver to protest, the fee is $100 and you must have cash in hand. This protest must take place immediately at the conclusion of the feature event. The protesting driver must have competed in the same class as the driver he is protesting.
-All cars to be in inspection line 1 hour prior to starting time. There will be a $50 late fee if you don’t meet the deadline
-Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
– Any front wheel drive car with a wheel base no bigger than 110”. Any rear wheel drive car with a wheel base no bigger than 105”. No 4wd vehicles, trucks or vans.
-Motor swaps are allowed not no added material to make that swap possible. (See cradle rules in FRAME section.)
-Car must be swept clean. Remove all bumper covers, lights, trim etc.
-You May run aftermarket shifters, pedals and coolers.
-Must have helmet and eye protection. Must run a seat belt.
-Drivers must be 18 yrs of age. 16-18 must have a parents signature.
-Please take the time to make sure the battery and gas tank is securely fastened!
-You can have a 4 point cage. Door bars are to be no bigger than 2×8, front and rear bars no bigger than 4×4. Tank protector no bigger than 2.5×2.5
-Door bars not to extend back further than 10” from the front door seam. That goes for your rear seat bar as well.
-Tank protector is to be no wider than 24”. You may have an upright on each side of it with 2 bars going forward, covering side the the tank. Protector can touch package tray but can’t be welded or bolted. Not to extend in the trunk area.
-NO KICKERS OR DOWNLEGS ANYWHERE!!
-Door bars, dash bar, rear bar and tank protector must be 5 inch away from and floor pan or anything to strengthen the car. The only thing that can be against the sheetmetal the the back of the tank protector.
-If your batteries, steering column, trans cooler or anything acts as a kicker/pin it will be removed.
-Roll bar must go straight up and over. You may bolt it with 2- ½ bolts to the roof only, no bigger then a 4×4 plate for those mounting spots. No bigger then 2×6 on the roll bar.
-You may crease any outer panel on the body but NO WEDGE CARS!
-Doors and trunk can be welded every 6 inches and then skip 6 inches 3×1/8 material but the drivers door can be welded solid and a door plate if desired. Door plate can overlap the front fender and rear door 3 inches and is to be no thicker then 3/16 material. (scared of getting hit in the door im giving you permission to plate the entire door)!
-1 – 10×10 hole must be cut in the trunk lid if we cant see in it.
-To mount the hood you can have 4 – 3 inch long pieces of 2×2 angle welded to the fenders with a ½ bolt through it to hold the hood down.if you’d rather use bolts you can have 6 locations with ⅝ bolts holding it down. IT MUST be a factory mini car hood. 10 ⅜ bolts max in the hood.
-Windshield bar is to big no bigger then 2×2 tubing or 3 inch flat bar. It may not be used as any kind of kicker or lock anything it to the cage or it will be cut out.
-Rear bar can be 2×2 tubing or 3 inch wide flat bar it cannot go to the roll bar no matter how you do it or try to configure it.4 inches welded to the roof, it has to go at the rear window area in the center of the car. No cutting a hole in the roof and running it through there. It also must mount at the speaker deck trunk lid area in the center of the car. You may have a 5×5 ¼ plate for it to set on and weld to. If you cut the speaker deck out and move the trunk back it still doesn’t matter, has to be where the factory location is. If it isnt it will be removed!!
-You can have a center bar for shifter or accessories but it must meet the same rules as all other cage components.
-No wire, straps, cable or anything from cage to body.
-No frame creasing or frame manipulating, sub frame as well.
-You may have 4 – 3×3 patch plates anywhere you want them, any way you want them but cannot be used as a kicker or to tie into the cage in any way.
-You may cut the crush point out of the car, car can but cut back to the core support but no further DO NOT ALTER / BUILD OR RE-ENFORCE the core support .
-No seam welding of any kind on the frame or body
-Rust repair i must get detailed pictures and it will be minimal.
-At your core support you can change that body mount out with ⅝ allthread that can go through the hood and bumper shock if you choose for it to.
-You may have a 10 inch bumper shock no bigger then 2×2 square tubing or round stock, it can be on the inside or outside or the frame just no bigger the 10 inches!
-No pins or plating the frame or it will be a AUTOMATIC DQ!
-You may have a piece of tubing 2×2 NO BIGGER THEN 2 inches welded to the side of the frame for your strut to rest on HOWEVER no patch plate can touch this piece of tubing. It must be at least 2 inches away or ill be removed completely!!
-If you choose to run the factory shock it must be for that year, make and model car. You can only weld the first 10 inches of it, no bolting it either.
-Remember your bumper shock starts at the back of your bumper!!
-No bolting through any of the front sub frame, the only ones you can even change are the front 2 at the core support.
-FRONT bumpers are to be no bigger then 4×8 tubing and no smaller then 4×4 and have no bigger then a 8 inch point measuring from the back side and with a 30 inch spread . The ends must be capped and no sharp points. DEC, amish, dixon, Brian’s machine or SMW style bumpers are all ok. ALL HOME MADE BUMPERS MUST BE SQUARE
-REAR bumpers you can have a piece of tubing no smaller then 2×4 3/16 and no bigger then 4×6 3/16 if its smaller or bigger don’t waste your time it will be cut off!
-Bumpers can have a 5×5 ¼ mounting pad welded to the end of the frame for the bumper to be welded to.
Suspension / Drivetrain
-You may run home made struts
-Any wheel and tire combo / if running foam filled and it becomes a issue you may have to have disqualified
-You may re-enforce your tie rods
-Leaf spring cars must run factory leafs and factory shackles and clamps.
-You may run a braced rear end but no solid axles, the rear end brace must be 4 inches away from any body or frame component
-Trailing arms must remain stock other then the lower two going forward, no bigger then 2×2 on those.
-If your running a rear wheel drive you may run solid shocks in the rear for ride height.
-Only RWD cars can have a piece of 2×2 – 3 inches long welded to the bottom of the frame to mount the swap bar. Swap bar can be bolted solid to the lower a-frame NOT WELDED!
-Only RWD cars can have a lower cradle and pulley pro, it must have a 2 inch gap before the derby starts and cannot be altered or anything added at the derby or it will be a automatic DQ! Lower cradle cannot be no wider then the engine block, no back plates, steel bells or anything like that LOWER CRADLE AND PP only! Cradle cannot add strength to the frame in any way!
-Engine mounts can be aftermarket no bigger then 3×3 pads for RWD and no bigger then 2×2 tubing for the FWD cars. If its made to strengthen the car it will be cut off.
-You may convert and car to carb
-No header pro, valve cover pro or any other kind of protectors added to the engine.
-Radiators must remain in factory location, no added coolers.
-Judges decisions are final