July 22nd, 2021- Compact Car Demo Derby

2021 SOKY Fair Demolition Derby Info:

ADMISSION: $12
GATES OPEN @ 6PM
EVENT STARTS @ 7:30PM
-CARS MUST BE ON GROUNDS AND REGISTERED BY 6:30 PM

Gates open for registration at 5:00 pm CST and ends promptly at 6:30pm CST. All cars MUST be registered by 6:30 pm CST or you will not be allowed to run. All cars must enter from the Glen Lily Road gate.
ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

Compact Cars:

Contact:  Timothy Miller (270) 303-9149

-CARS MUST BE ON GROUNDS AND REGISTERED BY 6:30 PM

– Any front wheel drive car with a wheel base no bigger than 110”. Any rear wheel drive car with a wheel base no bigger than 105”. No 4wd vehicles, trucks or vans.

-Motor swaps are allowed not no added material to make that swap possible. (See cradle rules in FRAME section.)

-Car must be swept clean. Remove all bumper covers, lights, trim etc.

-You May run aftermarket shifters, pedals and coolers.

-Must have helmet and eye protection. Must run a seat belt.

-Drivers must be 18 yrs of age. 16-18 must have a parents signature.

-Please take the time to make sure the battery and gas tank is securely fastened!

CAGE:

-You can have a 4 point cage. Door bars are to be no bigger than 2×8, front and rear bars no bigger than 4×4. Tank protector no bigger than 2.5×2.5

-Door bars not to extend back further than 10” from the front door seam. That goes for your rear seat bar as well.

-Tank protector is to be no wider than 24”. You may have an upright on each side of it with 2 bars going forward, covering side the the tank. Protector can touch package tray but can’t be welded or bolted. Not to extend in the trunk area.

-NO KICKERS OR DOWNLEGS ANYWHERE!!

-Door bars, dash bar, rear bar and tank protector must be 5 inch away from and floor pan or anything to strengthen the car. The only thing that can be against the sheetmetal the the back of the tank protector.

-If your batteries, steering column, trans cooler or anything acts as a kicker/pin it will be removed.

-Roll bar must go straight up and over. You may bolt it with 2- ½ bolts to the roof only, no bigger then a 4×4 plate for those mounting spots. No bigger then 2×6 on the roll bar.

Body

-You may crease any outer panel on the body but NO WEDGE CARS!

-Doors and trunk can be welded every 6 inches and then skip 6 inches 3×1/8 material but the drivers door can be welded solid and a door plate if desired. Door plate can overlap the front fender and rear door 3 inches and is to be no thicker then 3/16 material. (scared of getting hit in the door im giving you permission to plate the entire door)!

-1 – 10×10 hole must be cut in the trunk lid if we cant see in it.

-To mount the hood you can have 4 – 3 inch long pieces of 2×2 angle welded to the fenders with a ½ bolt through it to hold the hood down.if you’d rather use bolts you can have 6 locations with ⅝ bolts holding it down. IT MUST be a factory mini car hood. 10 ⅜ bolts max in the hood.

-Windshield bar is to big no bigger then 2×2 tubing or 3 inch flat bar. It may not be used as any kind of kicker or lock anything it to the cage or it will be cut out.

-Rear bar can be 2×2 tubing or 3 inch wide flat bar it cannot go to the roll bar no matter how you do it or try to configure it.4 inches welded to the roof, it has to go at the rear window area in the center of the car. No cutting a hole in the roof and running it through there. It also must mount at the speaker deck trunk lid area in the center of the car. You may have a 5×5 ¼ plate for it to set on and weld to. If you cut the speaker deck out and move the trunk back it still doesn’t matter, has to be where the factory location is. If it isnt it will be removed!!

-You can have a center bar for shifter or accessories but it must meet the same rules as all other cage components.

-No wire, straps, cable or anything from cage to body.

Frame/Bumpers

-No frame creasing or frame manipulating, sub frame as well.

-You may have 4 – 3×3 patch plates anywhere you want them, any way you want them but cannot be used as a kicker or to tie into the cage in any way.

-You may cut the crush point out of the car, car can but cut back to the core support but no further DO NOT ALTER / BUILD OR RE-ENFORCE the core support .

-No seam welding of any kind on the frame or body

-Rust repair i must get detailed pictures and it will be minimal.

-At your core support you can change that body mount out with ⅝ allthread that can go through the hood and bumper shock if you choose for it to.

-You may have a 10 inch bumper shock no bigger then 2×2 square tubing or round stock, it can be on the inside or outside or the frame just no bigger the 10 inches!

-No pins or plating the frame or it will be a AUTOMATIC DQ!

-You may have a piece of tubing 2×2 NO BIGGER THEN 2 inches welded to the side of the frame for your strut to rest on HOWEVER no patch plate can touch this piece of tubing. It must be at least 2 inches away or ill be removed completely!!

-If you choose to run the factory shock it must be for that year, make and model car. You can only weld the first 10 inches of it, no bolting it either.

-Remember your bumper shock starts at the back of your bumper!!

-No bolting through any of the front sub frame, the only ones you can even change are the front 2 at the core support.

-FRONT bumpers are to be no bigger then 4×8 tubing and no smaller then 4×4 and have no bigger then a 8 inch point measuring from the back side and with a 30 inch spread . The ends must be capped and no sharp points. DEC, amish, dixon, Brian’s machine or SMW style bumpers are all ok. ALL HOME MADE BUMPERS MUST BE SQUARE

-REAR bumpers you can have a piece of tubing no smaller then 2×4 3/16 and no bigger then 4×6 3/16 if its smaller or bigger don’t waste your time it will be cut off!

-Bumpers can have a 5×5 ¼ mounting pad welded to the end of the frame for the bumper to be welded to.

Suspension / Drivetrain

-You may run home made struts

-Any wheel and tire combo / if running foam filled and it becomes a issue you may have to have disqualified

-You may re-enforce your tie rods

-Leaf spring cars must run factory leafs and factory shackles and clamps.

-You may run a braced rear end but no solid axles, the rear end brace must be 4 inches away from any body or frame component

-Trailing arms must remain stock other then the lower two going forward, no bigger then 2×2 on those.

-If your running a rear wheel drive you may run solid shocks in the rear for ride height.

-Only RWD cars can have a piece of 2×2 – 3 inches long welded to the bottom of the frame to mount the swap bar. Swap bar can be bolted solid to the lower a-frame NOT WELDED!

-Only RWD cars can have a lower cradle and pulley pro, it must have a 2 inch gap before the derby starts and cannot be altered or anything added at the derby or it will be a automatic DQ! Lower cradle cannot be no wider then the engine block, no back plates, steel bells or anything like that LOWER CRADLE AND PP only! Cradle cannot add strength to the frame in any way!

-Engine mounts can be aftermarket no bigger then 3×3 pads for RWD and no bigger then 2×2 tubing for the FWD cars. If its made to strengthen the car it will be cut off.

-You may convert and car to carb

-No header pro, valve cover pro or any other kind of protectors added to the engine.

-Radiators must remain in factory location, no added coolers.

-Judges decisions are final